First step is to disconnect the battery to reset fuel trims.

Next, go over to the passenger's side footwell and remove the piece of plastic trim on the right hand side in front of the door. There's one T25 screw where it meets the door sill trim and then it pulls out. The ECU is held in with two T25 or Philips screws depending on car. Disconnect the ECU. On the underside of it there are some metal tabs you have to bend away to take the lid of the ECU off.

Once you take the lid off, with the connector pointing up the chip goes in the bottom right corner of the ECU. It's under a little plastic retaining clip. Make sure the notch in the chip matches the notch in the socket or the car will not start.

Now put it all back together.

The EZK is above the driver's right foot if you're in a left hand drive car. The trim around the pedals has three quarter turn fasteners where it meets the knee bolster and then slides down and forward. You should see a little black or gold box with a smaller version of the connector that the ECU has, near the steering shaft. You have to put your head in the footwell to see it. It's not great.

The EZK is held in with three Philips head screws, two on the side facing the driver and one in the upper back corner. A stubby screwdriver helps a lot. It's easier to free the spring clip on the connector before you unscrew the EZK.

Once you get it out, you should see four T10 screws holding the rear half of the case on.

In there you should see the big main board and a second board perpendicular to that one with a chip identical to the fuel chip on it. Some EZKs do not have this. If you don't have the daughterboard you can buy a "chippable EZK" from us which just plugs in in place of the one you have or a daughterboard kit if you're into soldering.

After reinstallation, you're done.